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A variation on Coquilles St. Jacques was updated, and inspired: grilled shrimp and sea scallops with tarragon, served over pristine mesclun with beets and white-truffle oil. Formidable! Snail lovers: do order escargots with garlic-parsley butter.
One recent evening, venison was roasted in port with shiitake mushrooms and served with Ndiaye’s signature potatoes mashed with garlic and leeks. Cornish hen was roasted to perfection in a deeply satisfying Beaujolais sauce, served with more of those potatoes and green beans that made you sit up and take notice. Grilled salmon with tarragon sauce was exquisite.
Don’t miss the namesake dish, le gigot, leg of lamb beautifully roasted and served with flageolet and ratatouille. Roasted loin of pork was also ideal winter fare, and steak au poivre with slender, delicious pommes frites, was a masterpiece. Still, perhaps the piece de resistance was the homemade confit, duck marinated to Ndiaye’s exacting taste in herbes de Provence, tender and succulent.
For dessert: crème brulée that manages to seem light, and lush tarte tatin that reminded a pal of Polidor.
- Sylvia Carter
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